Diamonds and Designers

"For me its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer seas flashing in the sun; 

the pulsing of its surf is in my ear; I can see its garlanded crags, 

its leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by the shore," 

Mark Twain

I had a feeling Waikiki was going to be nothing like I expected yet also everything it was supposed to be.  Diamond Head was just too famous for me to not have an image in my head and of course the golden sands were predictably powdery underfoot.  It was actually the blue of the ocean that surprised me.  We sauntered along Kalakaua Avenue past every designer store known to man (and Japan).  Then slid between two tall buildings where the sand shuffling under our flip flops got thicker and thicker until we popped of the shadows into the bright sunlight of Waikiki Beach.  The bright marine dazzle jolted me, the turquoise clear brilliance was broken only by the abundant roll of white coasters.  I watched wide eyed at the vast array of surf breaks with all manner of boards and riders.  The outriggers were the final clues in my comprehension as to why this special place had become a surfing mecca and indeed a representation of paradise.   I gazed in silent wonderment absorbing the quintessential beach moment of perfection. 

"the daystar sparkled like a diamond. 

The land breeze blew in our faces, and smelt strong of wild lime and vanilla."

Robert Louis Stevenson

We were certainly not alone in paradise, thousands were thronged along this narrow strip of sand, enjoying my balmy breeze and dancing alongside on the hot squeaky sand. This slice of utopia was tenuously holding onto a shoreline packed with every imaginable tourist trimming. This 19th century playground for the the Hawaiian Royalty was changed forever in the 1920's with the construction of the Ali Wai Canal. Draining the wetland area behind the beach paved the way for the highrise development. Behind the facade of Ocean frontage hotels all vying for a view of the precious sand is a line of designer shops and manicured sidewalks. The combination of these two perfect worlds is Disney like in its surreality. Peel a little further back behind the veneer and the overflowing trash cans and flies are squashed into the skycraper, high density world of supermarkets and commuter buses.

“The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun” 

Duke Kahanamoku

The nucleus of Waikiki has exploded in every possible direction so we went to ground zero, the Royal Hawaiian Hotel or the "Pink Lady".  With the widest section of beach, this was one of the original tourist hotels that had been the jewel in the Hawaiaan crown for nearly a century.  Although not quite from the era of  Duke's Beach Boys, Greg hadn't thrown a shadow onto this particular surf location for over 40 years.  Things had changed, especially the beach erosion.  With a wry smile I thought of how sand had been shipped in from Manhattan Beach, California in a bid to restore beach frontage back to l980 levels.  

"Time you enjoyed wasting is not wasted time."

T S Eliot

Our need to see more lured us on to explore further. The narrow walkway provided access where the water met the hotel concrete and the beach had disappeared. Josh had eaten a little too much in the International food court to squeeze through the short cut.

"Ocean Air Salty Hair" Unknown

We lingered for a while waiting for an unsuspecting victim to fall prey to the spray. Looking out over the Pacific I pondered how this ancient Polynesian sport of surfing had made the leap to California. Henry Huntington was on vacation in 1907 and thought surfing would be the perfect attraction to draw people to Redondo Beach where he owned vast amounts of real estate. When he cut in half his huge 16' wood surfboard to make them more manageable, he created the first longboard. 

"For him in vain the envious seasons roll,

Who bears eternal summer in his soul"

Oliver Wendell Holmes

We wound our way along towards the harbor as the blazing sunshine made us hotter and hotter. Luckily we found a man made oasis and enjoyed the shade of the lagoon. I was craving the quiet respite of the North Shore and our beach shack. Although I was certainly starting to understand what it takes to manage such a mass tourism industry in a tiny space. The devoted vacationer who had worked hard and saved long for their slice of Shangri-La was no different in nature than the original Polynesians enjoying the warm water, soft air and the magnificent turquoise of the Pacific Ocean. Although a few centuries of progress means that swimmers wear clothes in the water now?

“I have never seen snow and do not know what winter means.” 

Duke Kahanamoku 

I desperately wanted to put a lei on the statue of Duke and make my offering to the surf gods. However, as with many things in surfing, it was just out of my reach. The trip here hadn't changed the way I was drawn to watch the surf or improved my surfing.  This Hawaii trek had made me humble and had taken me reverently back to where the culture of surfing had come from and why it literally is a noble pursuit. Hawaii has always drawn people into and onto the ocean, it represents a paradise that is part of your soul.

"The native language is soft and liquid and flexible and in every way efficient and satisfactory-till you get mad; then there you are; there isn't anything in it to swear with." 

Mark Twain

After a full day, we were starting to get a little twisted by the heat and crowds. Before we had to put another $25 in the parking meter I thought it best we leave in case we ended up trying to put down roots here in paradise.

It was time to move into the domain of living legends of the surf world.  We needed to head to the North Shore for a date with our friends the Bielmanns at Haliewa Joes.  It was our last night on Oahu and we hoped to get a little twisted in a celbratory way. We wanted to thank this wonderful family who had graciously shared their world with us.  Brian's wife, Shawna, was the original mermaid and I realized Brian was inspired to take such beautiful pictures because he had such beautiful wife.  At dinner they introduced me to local fried fish and entertained us with amazing stories.  They seemed such a vital part of life here on this small island where community is everything.  The easy laughter of the evening left me hugging them tight and holding on for just a moment longer to the Hawaii dream.

"Roughing it in the Sandwich Islands" 

Mark Twain

As with the famous adventurers before us, from Captain Cook to Robert Louis Stevenson and Mark Twain, it was time to say 'Mahalo' for the fond memories of North Shore turtles and the dazzle of the South Shore.  In truth I hadn't conquered any hero surf or mastered hula dancing, but I had found aloha in the hearts of friends, legends and the natural beauty of Oahu.  We had an early flight from this remote and tiny island to Australia, the worlds biggest Island.  At least I wouldnt worry about oversleeping, I could rely on the the chickens for my dawn wake up call.