Byron Bound

"When a man opens the car door for his wife, 
it’s either a new car or a new wife."

Prince Philip

Our new car "FUR the Ford Exploder" performed well on the first foray into four wheel drive territory.  Driving up paved Possum Shoot Road was a cinch compared to climbing up Dickie's driveway.    

"Tis distance lends enchantment to the view, 
and robes the mountain in its azure hue." 

Thomas Campbell

The climb up was definately worth the priceless view from Dick's balcony.  The sweeping vista of the Byron hinterland rolling down to the ultramarine of the ocean took my breath away.  The outlook was an ever changing kaleidoscope throughout the day.  When the first early morning rays broke through the mist rising off the land, the calm purple haze was broken only by the call of the birds.  In the midday breeze the green lushness rustled down from the ridge behind us out onto the open grassland below.  In the softer evening peach of the setting sun the sound of the jersey cows lulled in the pastures below as the swallows swooped back to their nests.  After an evening of relaxing by the fire I retired to bed but even there I had an expansive view of the lights of Byron twinkling in the distance with the predictable flash of the lighthouse as it rotated its beacon.  

"It don't take a genius to spot a goat in a flock of sheep" 

Cowboy Proverb

Waking up and having breakfast on the balcony was a wonderful treat until the strange noises drew us to look down onto the South African sheep that had been masquerading as a goat, or was it the other way around?  Regardless, Brownie had mastered the art of making dragon like mewling nosies to attract Jasmin's attention in order for her to share some of her porridge.  Dickie assured us the goat/sheep/dragon was only looking for a few slices of bread.  

"I haven't reported my missing credit card to the police 

because whoever stole it is spending less than my wife."

Ilie Nastase

Greggie had promised Wifey some shopping time in Byron and we set off to explore the town.  I hadn't been there for over two decades and barely recognized the place.  Although, in true confession, last time I was here as a twenty-something year old backpacker, I think I spent a fair amount of time in the pub.

“A good local pub has much in common with a church, 
except that a pub is warmer, and there's more conversation. ” 

William Blake

This time around I settled for takeaway fish and chips while sitting on the beach.  Byron was overflowing with visitors, international tourists like ourselves, families on school holidays and gray nomads from the colder regions of South Australia and Victoria.  

"A woman should never be seen eating or drinking, 

unless it be lobster salad and Champagne, 

the only true feminine and becoming viands." 

Lord Byron.

Sitting on the picnic tables overlooking the sweep of Byron Bay, my fish tasted like lobster although my diet coke was nothing like champagne.  Regardless, we did feel in a celebratory mood enjoying the sunshine and safe anchorage, much like Captain Cook in 1770.  Upon discovering the place he named it Cape Byron after the Vice Admiral Honorable John Byron, also known as Foul Weather Jack.  Famous for circumnavigating the globe and discovering innumerable Pacific Islands the bigger claim to celebrity was from his grandson, the poet,  Lord Byron.

"She walks in beauty, like the night

Of cloudless climes and starry skies;

And all that’s best of dark and bright

Meet in her aspect and her eyes;"

Lord Byron

Byron Bay became famous for surfing in the 1960's, but the first industry was logging the Australian red cedar.  Many of the roads in the area contain the name "shoot" which comes from the timber cutters who would 'shoot' the logs down from the hills and drag them off to the waiting ships.  Just as I was getting ready shoot me some possum up on the road by Dickie's house.

“Out of water, I am nothing” 

Duke Kahanamoku

With parking at a premium, our lunch time sojourn was quickly over.  There was only time for a quick play on the fabulous recreation facilities before we had to rush back to protect FUR the Ford Exploder from getting a ticket.  

"Our story is in the land... it is written in those sacred places,"

Big Bill Neidjie

The area of Wategos is known by local aboriginal groups as "Walgun", meaning "the shoulder". The Cape is the most easterly point of mainland Australia. 

"Under the Lighthouse we were lost."

Robert James

The light of The Cape Byron lighthouse has been shining its 3 million candela since 1901.  Even with the guiding light there have been many shipwrecks.  Just off the headland is Julian Rocks about which the Bundjalung Aboriginal people tell an interesting story. A jealous husband threw a spear at the canoe carrying his wife and her lover.  The spear sank the boat leaving only the bow and stern of the boat above the waves thus creating Julian Rocks.

"I love her far horizons, I love her jewel-sea"

Dorothy Mackellar

Looking south from the lighthouse and the vista produced yet another beautiful wild and windswept golden beach, fringed by the forest.  However this wasn't just any beach, this was Tallows Beach renowned for huge waves.  Tallow is rendered animal fat which was used to make candles and is indeed an odd name for a beach.  Legend has it that when the Volunteer, a timber schooner, capsized in 1864 all the crew were lost and 120 casks of tallow washed ashore.

"Nostalgia: A device that removes the ruts 

and potholes from memory lane." 

Doug Larson

Just as Tallows is not just any old beach, this was not just some indiscriminate rural road.  For Greg this was Memory Lane and we were headed back down it after 35 years absence.  Luckily things hadn't changed too much, more infrastructure but the reward at the end of the road look just the same. 

"The fishermen know that the sea is dangerous and the storm terrible, but they have never found these dangers sufficient reason for remaining ashore." 

Vincent Van Gogh

Well exposed, the beach has consistent riptide currents from the double sand bar. Broken Head is just that, a headland that has broken and slipped into the sea. The rocks jutting up are known as Cocked Hat Rocks. However, the Bundjalung have a dreamtime story, which describes them as "Three Sisters Rock". Three sisters went swimming, off the headland, one was swept away in a rip. The other sisters swam to save her but also perished and drowned. The warning to the Bundjalung children is justified, to go in the water here meant they too would drown and turn into rock.

"When buying a used car, punch the buttons on the radio. 

If all the stations are rock and roll, 

there's a good chance the transmission is shot." 

Larry Lujack.

It was time to test the metal on the sand and take FUR the Exploder off the beaten track.  After buying the relevant beach permit we moved into low range and went exploring along Seven Mile Beach.

"The gift of fantasy has meant more to me than my talent for absorbing positive knowledge."

Albert Einstein.

Greg hadn't been up to Lennox Head since the filming of 'Fantasea' several decades before.  Yet he remembered it like it had happened yesterday.  Standing in the very spot where they had parked, he reminisced about several friends in the film who were no longer with us.  Taking a moment we enjoyed the view and then walked the trail to the end of the headland.  It was time to head back up Possum Shoot road as we had a very special friend arriving.

The best things in life come in threes, 

like friends, dreams, and memories." 

Mencius

Lucky for us, Mick happened to be in the country for a few days and drove down to visit for the evening.  It had been quite a while since the Three Amigos had been sailing the high seas together.  It was great to see all the wonderful photography books Mick had cleverly put together since we'd seen him last.  But as with all good things, our time in Byron was at an end.  Early the next morning, with lots of laughter we dodged the downpours and packed the Exploder to the maximum to head north in search of rainbows and sunshine.